Luce Change
Monday, January 5, 2009 at 11:44AM 
Once in a while you get the itch to flare out on the open road.
(My limit on the open road is usually about two hours one way, not counting stops at rest areas and the occasional coffee-buying venue. Mention a trip much longer than that and I'll start moaning. And I do not like to fly.)
But like I said: once in a while you get the itch. Last Saturday was such a day.
My daughter, Audrey, who travels better than I (and loves to fly), enjoys reading both political commentary and biographies of influential political figures. Several months ago she plucked a book from my shelves entitled Henry and Clare: An Intimate Portrait of the Luces by Ralph G. Martin.
Ann Clare perished in an automobile accident on January 11, 1944, at the age of nineteen.
Audrey selected that volume because when she met bestselling author Ann Coulter and heard her speak at Furman University last April, Ann mentioned her admiration for the work and conservative legacy of Clare Boothe Luce.
Henry Luce (1898-1967), the son of Presbyterian missionaries to China, was the founder of Time. Clare (1903-1987), his second wife, was an author, publisher, playwright (she wrote The Women), one of the first females to serve in Congress (R-Connecticut, 1943-1947), and United States Ambassador to Italy (1953-1956) under President Eisenhower.
President Reagan appointed Clare Boothe Luce to his Foreign Intelligence Advisory Board in 1981, and in 1983 he awarded her the Presidential Medal of Freedom.
Turns out both of the Luces, together with four of their relatives, are buried at Mepkin Abbey in Moncks Corner, South Carolina.
Yes. Moncks Corner is about as exciting a place as it sounds. And as we are not Catholic, few are the monasteries we visit.
But, I love exploring cemeteries. Famous graves are rich pickings, in my view. And after many days of assorted family illnesses and way too much sitting around the house eating rich holiday foods, it was time for a change of scenery.
One arrives at Mepkin Abbey only after leaving Interstate 26 about twenty miles north of Charleston and driving down an interminable succession of lonely roads reminiscent of the setting of a Stephen King novel. Weather-wise, Saturday was gloomy and misty-grey, which added to the creepy feeling.
We stopped briefly at the Piggly Wiggly in Moncks Corner to buy flowers for the graves. While there, I and the girls heaped copious ooohs and aaaahs and caresses upon the darling plum-sized heads of two Chihuahua puppies who were visiting the store in a tiny basket lined with a baby blanket.
To my mind this was an outstanding bonus and a decided bright spot. You can never go wrong petting puppies.
Still talking about the Chihuahuas, Audrey cradling our floral offering, we left the Pig (as Piggly Wiggly is known locally) and found Mepkin Abbey. After a short stop at the visitor center (where we met a lady who once met Clare Boothe Luce), we proceeded to the Nancy Bryan Luce Gardens and the Luce burial plot.
The graves lie at the head of a number of sloping, terraced gardens overlooking the Cooper River and surrounded by massive live oaks dripping Spanish moss. There are five markers in all. One is a shared stone for Henry and Clare. To the right of their grave lies Clare Boothe Luce's mother, Ann Clare Austin. On the opposite side rests Ann Clare Brokaw, Clare's only child (from her first marriage).
Ann Clare perished in an automobile accident on January 11, 1944, at the age of nineteen.
A few feet away are the graves of Henry Luce's daughter-in-law and one of her sons. It's all very quiet, very still. Except for the occasional sound of a pleasure craft on the river, it's almost too peaceful. The Luces loved this land and once owned it, along with hundreds of surrounding acres. Time still owns part of it.
(I forgot my camera, which is sort of on the fritz anyway, or I'd show you pictures. Next time. We plan to go back in the spring, on a nicer day.)
We tromped around for a while. I had worn the wrong shoes but I did not complain. Much. TG had stolen* a guide book at the abbey gift shop, and he pointed out the line of magnolia trees leading to the spot where Henry and Clare had planned to build a beautiful house for Ann Clare. Her untimely death laid that plan to rest, but the magnolias still stand despite severe damage to the area from Hurricane Hugo in 1989.
We finally tore ourselves away. TG treated us girls (and himself) to lunch at Atlanta Bread Company. We sat by a cheery fire to eat, and talked about our day. Then it was time to bite the bullet and drive home in the waning light. I had a chill and switched on my seat heater in the car. Now I think I'm coming down with a cold. Ah, well.
*sneeze*
If I weren't a trifle under the weather (speaking of which, it's sunny today in Columbia and the high temp is predicted to be 71), I'd end this post in a snappier way. But I can't, so ... Happy New Year, everyone! Here's to life, and living it. God bless us every one, in 2009 and beyond.
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* The lady at the visitor center/gift shop who had once met Clare Boothe Luce handed the book to TG as we left to view the graves, and encouraged him to use it, so he did as he was told. TG loves guide books. While in the gardens he noticed the book had a price tag of $3.50. At the end of our visit he went back and paid for it. We also bought a dramatically tall bottle of "Drizzle" (a fermented berry concoction that supposedly contains no alcohol, but whooeeee, it sure does kick up your waffles) and creamed cinnamon honey, both delightful substances produced by Trappist monks.
Reader Comments (11)
Sounds like a fun trip! I like to go through old cemeteries too and you had a few extra fun things as well.
Great post! I couldn't have explained our trip nearly as good. That's the kind of trip that you think about for a long time after and it all has to kind of sink in. I liked it. Especially since I've been reading about them.
Mari, I just knew you'd be like me and enjoy cemeteries! Fascinating.
Audrey, much of the fun of Saturday was spending it with you. We'll go back to Mepkin Abbey later in the year!
Sounds like a fascinating trip. I too love old cemeteries and could wander all day looking at the old stones. And puppies! What a perfect day.
You know they make really good fertilizer there as well.
Tracie, it was indeed a great day! Maybe someday we two can wander an old cemetery together. I would like that.
Lyn, I did know that! I read about the brothers' excellent compost on their web site! TG actually got all excited about that (or the farmer in him did, to be more specific), but as we don't have so much as a vegetable garden, we opted to leave it all there!
What a lovely, peaceful adventure! I understand how you feel about flying and driving for over two hours. I'm a homebody myself - that's my excuse. I hope you're feeling less under the weather today.
I had no idea Clare Booth Luce led such an active, interesting life. I'd forgotten that she authored "The Women." And Jenny, I'd love to see a photo of your dramatically tall bottle of Drizzle!
PS I wish you a healthy, happy, stuper free New Year!
Keli, girl, I'll provide a pic of that bottle of Drizzle! It's pretty spectacular, both inside and out! Every time I see it, I just want to drink it.
Clare wrote The Women (and several other plays) while propped on pillows in her bed at night! Supposedly she modeled the character of husband-stealing Crystal after herself, LOL! At any rate, she certainly was a dynamo!
And since I live with myself, my year for sure won't be stuper-free. Oh well! Can't win them all ...
Sounds like a great trip!
They have Atlanta Bread Company locations in South Carolina? That doesn't seem fair. What has South Carolina given us?? ;-)
Kev ... yes to the first ... as to the second, the only thing I can think of is the distinct privilege of being contiguous to us! More than enough, I'd say ...
I would have loved that graveyard with the live oaks and spanish moss. Just reading about it makes me miss SC.