Pittsburgh :: the Paris of Appalachia

Cathedral of Learning at the University of Pittsburgh

TG and I first hung out in Pittsburgh in the waning hours of the winter of 2017, just days before I had my first (of two, haha) hip replacement surgeries.

We had a wonderful time on that trip. A business matter was the reason we were there, but when TG announced he'd have to make the journey, I decided to go along and quickly sussed out the best, biggest, most historic cemetery in town: Allegheny.

A kind lady with a white dog took our picture

So that we could visit it, and walk it, take it all in, and -- best of all -- take pictures of it.

It remains one of the most wildly beautiful cemeteries we have seen on our travels, which have included touring and photographing around seventy huge, historic cemeteries (all east of the Rockies) in the last thirteen years.

The inside of the Cathedral of Learning looked like ... a cathedral

It was at Allegheny Cemetery that for the first time in our experience, we encountered whole herds of deer.

They take the breath away. Pun intended.

The Pitt campus is beautiful and well-tended

When we were there in early March of 2017, I decided that I wanted to go back sometime in the autumn of the year.

So it was that in 2022, when planning our fall trip which we knew would include Shanksville, I realized that my friend Sara lived but a few hours from Shanksville, and that Shanksville was only a ninety-minute drive from Pittsburgh.

Looking back across Bigelow Boulevard

The itinerary began to take shape.

Another, final destination, which is also a mere ninety minutes from Pittsburgh, rounded out our trip.

TG in front of the Soldiers & Sailors Memorial

I'll tell you about that next time.

We arrived in Pittsburgh in the early evening of the day that saw us tour the Flight 93 National Memorial -- which is actually located in Stoystown, Pennsylvania. 

Pittsburgh drivers get right up in your space

After enjoying a solidly good dinner at a non-chain restaurant in Somerset, we moseyed on up the road to Pitt.

We stayed in the same hotel where we hunkered down in 2017. I make sure to hold onto that information if the stay is a pleasant one, which it was then and which it was this time as well.

You can see Pittsburgh from on high if you're so inclined

On the morning of our first day in Pittsburgh, I wanted to go downtown.

That's where the campus of the University of Pittsburgh is situated, and in particular, the 1920s Gothic Revival/Art Deco architectural masterpiece known as the Cathedral of Learning.

The view from the window of the tiny red funicular car ... going up

I'd seen it from afar -- as the tallest educationally purposed building in the Western Hemisphere, it has a high profile -- in 2017, and had vowed to get closer the next time we went.

It did not disappoint. the building is gorgeous and imposing, mysterious in the way that only Gothic-style edifices can be, set in stunning manicured lawns, and surrounded on that day by an azure sky.

Confluence of the Ohio, the Allegheny, and the Monongahela ... click to embiggen

I was so thrilled to be there. The Heinz Memorial Chapel sits not far from the Cathedral of Learning, and on its steps we met a lady and her little white dog. She offered to take our picture with my new favorite building in the background.

After that we went inside the Cathedral of Learning, the first floor of which actually resembles a European cathedral.

Ginkgo trees are everywhere in Pittsburgh ... the yellow fans carpet sidewalks

We rode the high-tech elevators up to a higher floor but what exists there in the way of an observatory, was closed. Having not learned a whole lot, we went back outside.

Moving on, we walked around for a while, hanging out and taking a few pictures on the grounds of the nearby Soldiers & Sailors Memorial Hall & Museum.

Our personal tour guide at PNC Park

We did not go inside because had we done so, I would have lost TG for the better part of three hours as he read every last syllable of every last word posted on every last exhibit.

The pirate has all respect for soldiers and sailors alike but on that day I had no desire to haunt a museum.

TG in the Pirates dugout

Back at our car, we found that folks in Pittsburgh are fearless when it comes to the space between cars while parallel parking.

(It was by happy chance -- not to mention common courtesy -- that TG had left ample room between our front bumper and the back bumper of the car ahead of us, or we might still be sitting there.)

Our tour guide took this one with my phone

In preparing for our trip, I'd drawn a bead on another large cemetery besides Allegheny: Homewood.

I walked there and took pictures for an hour or so while TG cruised around in the car, using the map he'd procured in the front office to locate famous graves.

Pirate Pair :: Me and Roberto Clemente

We were hungry then, so we drove to a near suburb and had a delicious early dinner at Texas Roadhouse.

(In case you're wondering, no: We don't as a rule seek out trendy eating places or watering holes when we visit new cities. We are more 24-hour-diner than fine-dining types and we don't drink, so going to the TR for a reliably good -- and affordable -- steak is culinary adventure enough for us.)

The leaves were past peak but still ravishing

As it was late afternoon by then, we decided to round out the day by revisiting the Duquesne Incline.

Turns out there are two inclines in Pittsburgh: the Duquesne and the Monongahela.

Point State Park was quiet but full of stunning beauty

They say you haven't experienced Pittsburgh until you've taken a ride up the Monongahela Incline.

Then I guess we haven't experienced Pittsburgh yet, because in 2017 we didn't even know about the Monongahela Incline, and on this visit, it was closed for renovations.

But many trees were already bare ... and would soon be shivering

But the views of Pittsburgh are stunning from the top of the Duquesne Incline, and even when you've already seen it, there's still lots to appreciate.

It would soon be dark, so we set out for the barn but stopped by a grocery store on the way, for snacks.

Everywhere you look in Pittsburgh, there is yellow

While on trips, unless we are in town for an event, as a rule we like to spend the evenings in our hotel room, propped up in the king-sized bed, TG surfing on his iPad and me on my MacBook Pro.

We are as boring as a White House Press Conference, with more lying about but less lying.

Acrisure Stadium :: Home of the Pittsburgh Steelers. Click to embiggen.

The next morning, after breakfast and coffee, we headed for PNC Park (home of the Pittsburgh Pirates), where we had tickets for a guided tour.

We arrived in time to plunder the gift shop, where we bought a few tee shirts and a fridge magnet.

Fort Pitt. We went into the gift shop and bought a few things for the kids.

It turned out that no one else showed up for the reservations-only ninety-minute tour. As a result, we had our tour guide to ourselves. I was seriously into that because I'm selfish.

Each time we have taken guided tours of ball parks -- like Camden Yards (during the same trip when we visited the grave of Edgar Allan Poe) and Fenway Park in 2019 -- our tour guides have been older men who are lifelong residents and fans of the subject ball club.

Allegheny Cemetery is endless natural and funereal gorgeousness

These gentlemen are SO great on a tour of the ball park. They know everything and can answer all questions and it's just delightful.

After that we drove a few blocks to Point State Park, which to be honest I thought would be a little more action-packed than it actually was. It was in fact all but deserted.

I made a beeline for the Porter angel, one of the loveliest monuments at Allegheny. Click to see the back.

The weather was warm but not too warm, and overcast -- my favorite favorite absolute favorite sort of weather for walking around outside. I was dressed just right to be comfortable, and the light was ideal for pictures of the rivers and bridges and fall foliage. 

Alas the majestic fountain had been turned off for the winter, that very DAY. You can see it in full function in our pictures of the point taken from the top of the incline a scant twenty hours earlier.

Sights like this are everywhere at Allegheny Cemetery

Then it was time to drive out to Allegheny Cemetery and spend the afternoon there.

It was as splendid as I'd remembered, and I walked and walked and walked in the spring-like autumn weather.

The deer was neither amazed nor startled to see me

Spates of light rain put only a tiny damper on my perambulating and picture taking. We saw the deer again, although not in as great numbers as last time.

Again: we'd worked up an appetite. I consulted my phone for the nearest -- don't hate -- Cracker Barrel.

 This monument to a long-ago little girl broke my heart

Again: At least there, you more or less know what you're going to get.

Again: Our dinner was delicious and by six o'clock or so, we were back in the room preparing to relax for the evening.

Pittsburgh deer are particularly imperturbable ... click to embiggen

The next morning we set out early for the long drive home, but with a detour to a place that I have read about and wanted to visit for at least thirty years.

Maybe some of you have guessed the place, but please don't speculate in the comments.

One last look at the Paris of Appalachia

I want it to be a surprise.

And that is all for now except to say, I hope you are having a good week so far -- hitting all of your marks, righting wrongs and rerighting rights, slaying the dragons and making your dreams come true.

=0=0=0=

Happy Tuesday

Comments

[Mari]

I must admit this is not a place I would have chosen to visit - but I was wrong! Such beauty!
First, that photo of you and TG in front of the Cathedral is stunning! It looks professional. You two look great, the sky is gorgeous, as is the Cathedral.
The Porter memorial is beautiful too. What a splendid place to wander.
I've been reading parts of this out loud to Bon. I've decided he and TG have this museum issue in common. The kids used to complain about going to museums with him, because he too can spend the day at one, reading every work. He also likes to share that knowledge which is good with Heather because she is the same. Laura and Andy were always ready to move on to something else. :)
We also spend our nights in the hotel when on trips. We both liked your witty nod to Press Conferences.
Thanks for sharing this, I enjoyed tagging along!

[Bijoux]

Beautiful, beautiful photographs! My oldest daughter and my son have both visited Pittsburgh in recent years and enjoyed it. I haven’t been there since we took our girls to the Pittsburgh Zoo in 1994. I’d love to go and visit the Frick museums and gardens. Thanks for sharing a gorgeous fall trip.

[Jennifer]

@Mari ... Haaahahaah I can't believe Bon is the same as Greg in museums! Now don't get me wrong -- if I'm going into a museum, I'm going to look at everything, carefully. But he must READ EVERY WORD and it just takes so LONG. But I do love a good museum so we manage, even if I have to sit down and just people-watch after I've seen everything I wanted to see. Seriously though: go to Pittsburgh. Go in nice weather -- not too hot, not too cold. There is so much to see, you wouldn't even be able to see it all in two weeks but you'd have fun picking a thing or two for a short visit! Lovely city. xoxo

@Bijoux ... Well I'd love to see the Frick museums and gardens too! That sounds lovely. There is so much to do and see there! Truly a dynamic and interesting, quintessentially American city. xoxo

[Ginny Hartzler]

You really made the MOST of Pittsburgh!! And wonderful photos; I feel that I have had the entire tour now. Wow, you have toured 70 large cmetaries??? Now, exactly WHAT is The Cathedral Of Learning? What is in it and what is it's purpose? Your cemetary photos are beautiful, and the last shot is truly stunning!! And how cool that the back of this unique and beautiful cross is just a click away!

[Donna]

Love your photos...and the gravestones are so beautiful. Glad you enjoyed the trip.
hugs
Donna

[Jennifer]

@Ginny ... well in short trips, we really do try to make the most of it but there is SO much more to see in Pittsburgh! We would like to go back in summer for a baseball game! I'm pretty sure that the Cathedral of Learning is all classroom space. I mean it's hard to believe, given its size, but since the campus is in the middle of downtown, I think that all of the classrooms are concentrated there. It's fascinating! And yes, I couldn't believe it either when I counted up the number of cemeteries we've visited, but since 2010 we've made it our practice to visit cemeteries from here to Chicago and even farther west, to St. Louis and Oklahoma. We love it and except for the travel expenses, it's cheap entertainment, haaahaa! xoxo

@Donna ... There are so many incredibly beautiful gravestones at Allegheny, it would take a week to see them all! xoxo

[Lori]

What a fabulous trip you had. I never realized Pittsburgh had so much to offer. The photos are gorgeous as always. You always look stunning. I also have a thing for cemeteries. They are usually so peaceful and beautiful and I love seeing all of the gravestones. If you ever get to the central Illinois area you will have to visit Greenwood Cemetery in Decatur Illinois where I was born. It is said to be extremely haunted. If you make it there, I'll meet you and walk through with you but I'm not doing it alone. hugs my friend

[Carla TePaske]

Hello Jenny,
Fantastic photos!!!
I enjoyed the tour, Pittsburgh has a lot more to offer than I realized.
I am a baseball fan, thank you for sharing about your tour.
Carla
P.S. Loved your witty line about the press conferences. ;-)

[Jennifer]

@Lori ... thank you my friend for the compliments and YES if I can get within striking distance of Decatur, Illinois (ugh we practically drove right through there in September of '21 when we drove from Toledo to St. Louis!!!!), I will definitely take you up on that. I wouldn't walk in that place alone either, and I don't even believe in ghosts! But I have walked cemeteries alone many times, and a few times I've gotten spooked in broad daylight ... best to have a ride-or-die at such times! xoxo

@Carla ... Maybe someday you and Jeremy can go to Pittsburgh! Wouldn't it be fun to meet up at a Pirates game? A girl can dream! xoxo

[Gayla]

These photos! I'm a cemetery haunter (see what i did there?), but I don't think I've ever seen one with magnificent monuments like these! I love all the pictures and information. You both just look stunning, and the sky was perfect. You must have special ordered it! Like a press conference, huh? Pretty cute, you are! My little cemetery has a lot to tell, as do they all... thanks for sharing so eloquently... I will probably never go to Pittsburg, but I didn't miss it entirely! Can't wait to see your surprise...

[Jennifer]

@Gayla ... Thanks friend, it was a particularly good trip. I find that the more I plan, the better things go. I've seen many breathtaking (haha) cemeteries, but this one is in the top three for an absolute glut of gorgeousness everywhere you look. Truly a privilege is has been, to walk there and try to capture it. xoxo

[Jeanette]

Well, that looks like a wonderful trip with lots of things to see. Yes, that monument to a small child is heartbreaking and beautiful! We've been through Pittsburgh several times on the way to somewhere else but never spent any time there! I here you on relaxing in the hotel room with snacks and such. Rich and I do that every time we travel. It's necessary I think! Have a good week!

[Jennifer]

@Jeanette ... you are right it is absolutely necessary! I'm not sure I could spend a lot of time riding in the car, or in unfamiliar places all day -- as interesting as all of that can be -- if I didn't have a peaceful evening to look forward to, with familiar comforts around me. I hope you're having a great day, friend. xoxo